Runnin' Against the Wind

 Before I left South Dakota, I played with my food again.

This is what you get making cottage cheese...

When you use a gallon of milk making cottage cheese, you get about three quarts of whey, and a quart of cottage cheese. For some of us it brings back a nursery rhyme: Little Miss Muffet sat on her tuffet, eating her curds and whey... only I didn't have to worry about any spider.

Here are some other meals I whipped up for myself while Carol was in Wisconsin.

NEW YORK STRIP STEAK WITH A 

WINE/CREAM SAUCE

CABBAGE ROLLS WITH A 

PAPRIKA CREAM SAUCE

As you can see I did not starve while Carol was gone.

Besides hitting tourist traps, I did accomplish more maintenance on the truck and trailer. The weather in South Dakota can be tricky at times. I held off washing the truck because of rain, and when it looked like I was good to go, I washed the truck... and it rained a couple of days later. The rain is sneaky in South Dakota after a vehicle is washed... it sneaks in during the night when people are sleeping peacefully, knowing a mission was accomplished... only for that person to wake the next morning to a dirty truck again. I should have known better with construction happening on two sides of the campground, and dust blowing in from everywhere. Between the dust and rain, the truck looked diseased, with spots everywhere.

In the final days of my stay at Ellsworth I prepared for travel by experimenting with several varieties of jerky. Beside the chicken jerky I made earlier in my stay, I sliced up a New York strip steak, chunk style, and marinated it in a flavored balsamic vinegar (no pictures). My next experiment was with "maple" flavored SPAMⓇ...

It had a firm outside w/a soft chewy inside, and tasted pretty good too. As I told Carol when I txt'd her... eating them was on the line from Lays... you just can't eat one.

Also during the last few days I had a flashback to living in El Cajon just before we left. Tyler had bought a used utility van and started converting it into a his own little travel van, what we call a Class "B" RV in the Rving world.

His van like I said, was a utility van, so it did not have all these windows. I thought it would have been neat to have him camping near us for a day or two.

My body experienced something it hasn't experienced for many years...

I shaved off my beard and mustache in support of Eric. Since he doesn't have his facial hair, I thought I would walk next to him in my own way. It is likely I will grow my beard back faster than he will; I can't do anything about the top spot.

SNOWBIRD ON THE RUN...

Well, here it is time to move on out of South Dakota, on another windy day... but no rain... and I thank God for that.

Since I had new tires put on the trailer, the shop instructed me to stop around 50 miles and check the lug nuts to ensure they were all tight. I did as they instructed, and this is what was near me at the stop...

Imagine yourself hauling one of these, a wind turbine blade. There were three of them at this parking lot. By the way, this is still South Dakota.

If you look real hard at the blurry sign, you can read "Welcome to Wyoming"; South Dakota was doing road work right up to the state line, and it was a one lane road for 100 yards.

Nothing exciting happened going through Wyoming. I did stop at a rest station that was just down the highway from the campground Carol and I were originally suppose to stay at. Its a good thing I cancelled that stay, and opted to continue to Colorado. No sign for entering Colorado, a semi was in the way.

Here I am at my first of two stops in Colorado.

I had hopes of leaving the trailer attached to the truck, but the site was so unlevel I had to raise the trailer almost six inches above the hitch.

The park is not too bad, just in the middle of nowhere...again. I can really pick 'm.

This is part of their playground here. There is also a climbing dome, swings, climbing fort with a slide, and tables. The playground separates the tent campers from the RVs. They also has a pool, laundry, and lousy WiFi.

I left this campground with a sour taste I my mouth; I spent about a half hour a day cleaning bird poop off the truck.

With my fine experience done, I was off to the second Colorado stop. The journey was great weather wise... the roads were a different story. All I had to do was travel down I-25, 180 miles, and I would be settling in again for a couple days. Like I said, the roads changed that storybook drive. They were so rough in several areas, I ended up with a sore back, achy muscles, and an atrocious headache.

Anyway, I made it.

I have done it again... middle of nowhere.

It is a large park, the long term ("livers") are located at the back end, and the rest of us are up by the freeway. If I didn't crop the photo, you would see much of what you see around the campground already. The nice aspect of the park... the sites are pretty level, so I kept the trailer and truck connected during my stay.

I can tell the weather is changing. While it was in the upper 40s here in Colorado, Box Elder was was already in the mid-30s. Last night there was a frost advisory for Pueblo area, and only lasted until I was ready to leave.

Out the gate, and down the road I went on I-25. If Hell had rough roads, I bet this one leads to the front gates. There were a couple areas that weren't too bad because they recently re-did them. The wind decided it was time to kick up again, but it was predominantly a cross wind, which did provide for some nice photo opts.

CLOUDS BLOWN OVER THE MOUNTAIN

It wasn't all mountains, there was open prairie too...

MY OVERNIGHT ROOST

I left this place early in the morning... about 7:00am. From here to there...

3 1/2 hours later...

I'm home, Carol is still in Wisconsin, but she is due to arrive the next day. When I say arrive, it was 11:30pm... at Roswell International Air Center.

Still Here

 This gentleman was an important man to the Native American Indian. His name is Frank Fools Crow, a Ceremonial Chief of the Teton Lakota, known as a Visionary, Ambassador, Healer, and Storyteller. He believed in unity, and respect amongst all people. His life stretched almost 100 years, 1890 to 1989, and during his time on earth he made an impression. In 1975 he appeared before the Senate, leaving the Senate with this prayer: "Give us a blessing so that our words and actions be one in unity, and that we will be able to listen to each other. In doing so, we shall with good heart walk hand in hand to face the future".

Frank Fools Crow visited Bear Butte often, and it is believed this is where he received his healing powers.

One issue of important I owe to the Native American Indian is an apology. In my last post I showed pictures of the cloths and prayer ties hanging on the trees, this was an act of disrespect to the people and their deceased ancestors. When I made my second trip to the butte, the educational center was open. One of the requests was not take pictures of the cloths and prayer ties, respecting the families and ancestors. Once I learned that, I removed all my photos I took on my second journey up the mountain.

I did get up to the summit and lookout point this trip, all 3.74 miles round trip. To this day the Indians still come to their sacred mountain. The Cheyenne call the mountain Noavosse, meaning the "Good Mountain". The Sioux call the mountain Mato Paha, meaning "Bear Mountain".

It was here that the Cheyenne prophet, Sweet Medicine received the "4 Sacred Arrows", the 4 commandments, and a moral code. The four Sacred Arrows included two "Man Arrows" for warfare, and two "Bison Arrows" for hunting. The arrows were renewed every few years, unless a murder took place, or the pledger needed a blessing.

The Sioux worship Wakan Tanka, or Great Spirit, and pay tribute to spiritual rulers. One of their reasons for coming to the mountain, was to gain spiritual guidance for big hunts. One event would involve the entire tribe, dancing a "Buffalo Dance" to get the spirits to bring the buffalo to them.

These will be the three hills we will be cruising around. Along the trail visitors will find those prayer ties hanging from the trees. Certain colors are used because of what they symbolize. The colors may vary a bit depending on the tribes and bands, but they are usually similar, and still associated with the four directions.

- Black is for the West, and is the color of the Thunder and Lightning people, who clean the Earth.

- Red is for the North. The Buffalo come from the north and sacrifice themselves for the people, so the people may live.

- Yellow is for the East. Hope and a new day come from the east.

- White is for the South, which is the direction we go when we leave this physical world, on to the next.

The Cheyenne tradition is to spread out the cloth on the ground, representing the individual's altar, or personal medicine place. Rocks are placed on each corner representing the directions and boundaries of the individual's universe. In this way, the universe encircles the individual and outlines the worshiper's world. After a four-day prayer ceremony, the cloth is burned and given to the family, or tied to a tree, like the Lakota do today. Tobacco ties can be found tied to the trees as well, these are for the spiritual helpers.

FIRST STEPS ON THE JOURNEY

ABOUT A 7-8% GRADE GOING UP

THE SHORT CUT IN THE PHOTOS ABOVE

ABOUT A 1/4 OF THE WAY

BEAR BUTTE LAKE

AT THE TOP

BACK DOWN WE GO

See that thin white line on the other hills, that's our trail. I'm not sure how many mountain goats it took to make this trail, but they weren't fat goats.

FOR THE FLOWER LOVERS

 

I made it back to that little blue blob in the parking lot.

Back in the education center there were several exhibits. The above exhibit is some of the attire Red Cloud wore.

This vest is apparently a gift to him from a another tribe. The Lakota people used geometric designs; the Crow and Chippawa used flower designs.

The work done on this coat is pre-reservation style. The bead work is small beads from Italy, which were available to the Indians through trading. The design identified the person wearing the coat, and the fringe reportedly helped them to move like the wind. 

RED CLOUD (MAHPIYA LUTA)

AND HIS WIFE

LEAN WOMEN (WA-TAMAHECHA)

1857 BEAR BUTTE COUNCIL MEETING

It was rumored that there were close to 30,000 horses brought to the butte by the people attending the meeting; biggest meeting ever, to discuss the encroachment of the "white man".

Going upstairs there is a mural on the wall entitled "Make a Choice". Keep in mind that this is how our Native American Indians see their culture, and express it to us.

This mural depicts the struggles the Native American Indians deals with, which are much the same as "white men", drugs and alcohol addiction.

The mural begins on the left with the two trees; they represent the do's and don'ts, the good and the bad in life. If we stay on the right path, we will reach maturity, healthy and happy. Bad choices are represented by the logs lying on the ground... hollow and empty.

The wiped off faces of the people lined-up represent emotionally dead lives while we are here in this world. The other choice is in learning the ceremonies of our ancestors. This is accomplished through fulfillment of pride, dignity of self and family, knowledge of songs, stories, accurate history, and looking to the future. When these areas are focused on, one can walk in a more positive path. The Lakota people still teach their songs to the next generation.

the Elderman is reaching out, knowing that help is available. When the choice is made to return to, and open up to the cultural traditional ways, the Elder becomes a happy young man again, changing into an eagle, returning to the place said to be the center of the universe, which is Bear Butte.

A new day, a new life begins, and the waters change. People are happy, singing and dancing. The most sacred ceremony in their way is a small cottonwood tree, representing the Sundance. The little tree takes root and begins to grow, reaching out to help. If you really look close, you might see a face in it.

Mother Earth is sacred; life comes from her and returns to her. Sage is blanketing the land; the Thunderbeings are represented by lightning, which is the most powerful natural force. The man and women lightning represent the Indian Nations; the Teepee lightning represents their homeland; the warrior lightning represents walking with courage, a straight and narrow path, and living by the peoples values: Respect, Generosity, Courage, and Wisdom.

Daryl No Heart, Standing Rock, Hunkpapa, Lakota

Wo ecetu waste' (good and simple)

Oyate' Wakanpi (People look at him)

It was a good day for this journey, much was learned.

My cave adventure continued when I visited Jewel Cave.  In the last post I told you I tried to tour the cave, but missed out... sold out. I went back home and went online to make a reservation for an afternoon tour. I didn't pay attention to the write up on the tour, it was only a short one cave room tour.

The day my tour came up, I got the brilliant idea to, thanks to the ranger the first trip, to show up early the morning of my original tour. I was close enough in the walk-up line to get a reservation for the "scenic tour", which was a 1 1/2 hour tour.

They offer four types of tours: Discovery (easiest), Scenic (moderate), Lantern, and Caver (hardest).

In the beginning there were about two miles of discovered cave, today there is over 200 miles of explored cave. 

This cave is multiple levels, and the scenic tour starts on the upper cave level. This tour is in the blow-up on the right side of the above map. The tour starts at the elevators that take visitors to a barometric waiting area. For those that are not too sure what a barometric chamber is, it is in this case, an area with airtight doors at the elevators and entrance to the cave. The purpose of the chamber is to preserve the natural air flow throughout the cave.

To get to the entrance of the cave, the elevator ride takes visitors about 240 feet down. Entering the cave, visitors look up and see this... This chamber is a very large chamber. What I don't show you is the stairs the tour will be climbing. Don't fret, their not strenuous... they are metal, with handrails.

Visitors need to have their heads on a swivel... there is so much to see. The passage through the cave is naturally made, and no additions were created protecting the integrity of the cave.

The interesting part about the cave is that it has two environments, dry, and wet. Through the cave making process, water supported the weight of the rock, but when the water receded, the rock would crumble, or break apart. These are (blurred) examples...

The outer rock releases, breaking off and exposing the limestone underneath.

EXPOSED EDGE OF OUTER LAYER

I lied, here is a photo of what the railing looks like throughout the cave. By the way, this is one of the formations in the first chamber of the cave.

What you have seen so far are formations in the dry portion of the cave, we will now climb down to the wet portion of the cave, you will be able to see the difference.

VARIOUS STALACTITES

3' SODA STRAW

Q: what makes a soda straw different from a stalactite?

A: the soda straw is hollow and the same diameter the entire length, where the stalactite is larger at the base and narrower at the tip.

FLOW STONE FORMATION

LOOKING UP TO CEILING

STALAGMITE AND FLOW STONE

TRANSLUCENT CRYSTALS

"CAVE BACON" RIBBON

LOOKING AT CEILING

WANTS TO FALL?

The black mineral here is nothing to play with. The ranger was explaining that it has a sticky texture, and when it sticks... it sticks... and the unlucky person would be tracking it throughout the cave, into the gift shop, and probably to their vehicle. Fortunately none of it was near the floor of the cave.

LOOKING OVERHEAD AGAIN

LOOK, MORE RAILING

LOOKS LIKE TWO HOLES POKED IN THE ROCK

From here we headed up to the elevators. Before exiting the cave we had to walk through a solution that kills any "white nose" spores, this is done to protect the bats population in the cave.

After I left the visitor center I drove to the original cave entrance about a mile away.

I thought I was done with steps, after the 734 in the cave tour. Besides, my muscles were sore from the previous day hike.

SMALL VENT TO CAVE

ORIGINAL ENTRANCE TO CAVE

USED FOR LANTERN TOUR

From the cave it was homeward bound. I'm not sure I will do much else before we leave South Dakota. I went to bed one night, the diesel price was $4.24, on base. I got up the next morning, it was $4.43, on base.

See you on the other side of the mountain... somewhere.